There are two menus, each including 15 courses that alternate between creative nigiri and cooked dishes. The $195 Aburi Kyō-Kaiseki menu lists dishes like a silky Quebec foie gras chawanmushi.

So last night, in New York City's East Village, which has a lot of fancy pizza places, Esquire co-hosted the opening-night party of Chef Michael White's new fancy pizza place, Nicoletta. And ...